A few years ago, everyone who heard the word “perm” usually envisioned the same thing: huge ringlets, bouncy hair, and 80s-glam hairstyles. These days, perms come in a much broader range of styles and types, from the digital perm (or “hot perm”) to the ever-popular cold perm.
Though generally considered the more traditional style of perm, cold perms can still be incredibly versatile, particularly when they’re applied by the right stylist. In fact, cold perms are particularly good for various types of hair. Whether you have fine or coarse hair, you can create defined curls and beautiful, wavy layered styles with a cold perm.
So what exactly is a cold perm, how does it work, and how do you know if it’s the right perming process for your hair goals? Here’s a complete guide to the art of the cold perm, packed with insights from our Korean hair stylists.
What is a Cold Perm?
The cold perm, otherwise known as the “traditional perm” is the standard perm you probably associate with clearly defined ringlets and large, long-lasting, bouncy curls. Cold perms have been around for decades, inspiring some of the biggest fashion and hair trends of all time.
However, hair stylists have become more effective at applying cold perms in versatile ways in recent years, allowing them to create a wider range of looks for people who love curly hair.
The main difference between cold perms and hot perms (like digital perms), is that cold perms don’t rely on heat. Stylists use an alkaline solution on the hair which essentially breaks down the “disulfide” bonds in your hair structure. This makes your hair malleable, so it can be reformed into a new shape.
After applying the solution to all of your hair, your stylist will wrap the strands around cool rods, and fix them into position. A neutralizing solution is then sprayed onto the locks, which allows the bonds to reform, setting the curl in place.
Who Should Consider a Cold Perm?
Most experienced hair stylists can adapt any type of perm to your personal needs and preferences, and the cold perm is no different. However, some people are better candidates for cold perms than others. For instance, if you’re looking for sleek, smooth hair, then a cold perm definitely isn’t your best bet. We recommend a Korean down perm or straightening perm for this.
If you do want curls, but you’d also prefer more subtle waves than clearly defined ringlets, you might also be better off with a digital perm. Cold perms are more suitable for people who want really buoyant, statement hair.
As with most perms, we typically don’t recommend cold perms to people who have highly damaged hair. Breaking down the bonds in your hair can cause additional damage if your follicles are already weak and strained, so keep this in mind. However, if you have coarse hair, the cold perm may be the perfect option. Thicker hair absorbs the alkaline solution used in a cold perm better, which means you’re more likely to end up with amazing, long-lasting results.
If you’re not sure whether a cold perm is the right choice for you, we’d recommend grabbing some inspirational pictures of the kind of style you want, and going through them with a salon expert.
Are Cold Perms Bad for Your Hair?
Traditional perms have often had a bad reputation for being “damaging” to your hair. However, the reality is that when they’re applied properly, and treated with the right care, no perm should cause any inherent or lasting damage to your locks.
Cold perms obviously expose your hair to more chemicals than digital or hot perms, which could be a problem if your hair is already fine, brittle, or damaged by bleach or color. However, your stylist should carefully assess your hair health before determining if a cold perm is right for you.
If you’re suitable for a cold perm, then this method could actually be better for your hair than some other perming techniques. Cold perms can be a lot gentler on your hair than heat-based options, and your stylist can use specialist solutions to help protect your hair during the process.
Most stylists will also give you plenty of advice on how to care for your hair after your perm, which we recommend following to get the most out of your new look.
The Pros and Cons of Cold Perms
There’s no one-size-fits-all perming option that’s ideal for everyone. That’s why at PERFECT X HAIR, we commit so much time and effort to helping ensure you can choose the right treatment. If you’re not certain whether a cold perm is right for you, here are the pros and cons to consider.
Pros
- Hair protection: Cold perms can be gentler on your hair, as they use milder solutions than heat-based perms, and don’t expose your hair to as much heat.
- Excellent versatility: Cold perms are suitable for people with all kinds of hair type, and they can be adapted to suit your style preferences.
- Affordability: Compared to some options, like digital perms, cold perms can be a less expensive option (and they usually take less time to complete).
- Great volume: If you want a lot of bounce in your hair, cold perms are great for creating tight, voluminous curls that really stand out.
- Easy adjustability: Since cold perms usually only last for about 2 months, it’s easy to change your hair style if you decide you want something new.
Cons
- Aftercare: Cold perms might require more aftercare and styling than a digital perm or hot perm. You might need to invest in special treatment serums and lotions too.
- Subtlety: If you’re looking for a subtler look, such as soft waves, cold perms usually aren’t the best option (try a digital perm instead).
- Longevity: Most cold perms won’t last as long as a digital perm, so if you want to maintain your look, you’ll need regular treatments.
What to Expect from a Cold Perm with a Korean Stylist
If you think a cold perm is the right option for you, you might be wondering what you can expect from your appointment. One quick point we should make is that it’s always important to find the right stylist for any perming treatment. Look for a salon with stylists that have extensive experience in cold perming techniques, and make sure they offer consultations.
Here’s what you can expect from your cold perm appointment if you book a treatment with a leading Korean salon like PERFECT X HAIR.
Step 1: The Initial Consultation
Cold perms aren’t for everyone, and the right stylist won’t just tell you to get a cold perm if they don’t think it’s the right treatment for you. If you choose a reputable salon, they should invite you for an initial consultation where they’ll assess the health of your hair, and suggest the right treatment options, based on the goals you want to achieve.
We’d recommend taking a few inspiration photos to this appointment so you can show your stylist what you want, and preparing any questions you might have in advance. Make sure you also tell your stylist if you’ve had another perm treatment or color applied recently, as this might mean you’re not suitable for a cold perm straight away.
If a cold perm isn’t the right choice for you, your stylist should be able to suggest other options, such as root perms or a digital perm.
Step 2: The Perming Treatment
After you confirm that you want your cold perm and book your appointment, make sure you arrive at the salon with clean hair. Avoid adding any conditioner or heavy products to your locks before a perming appointment, as this can affect how well the alkaline solution works.
Your stylist will walk you through the perming process, then apply the alkaline solution to your hair, and shape your locks into ringlets using cold rods. Once every hair is curled and pinned into place, they’ll apply the neutralizing solution to reset the bonds in your hair.
The whole process will usually take around an hour and a half to two hours, but this could depend on the length of your hair. After the setting period, your stylist will rinse your hair with cold water, and then dry it into your preferred style. They might also cut your hair. Some salons, like PERFECT X HAIR, offer hair perm and cutting bundle packages.
Step 3: Aftercare
Finally, once your perm is ready, your stylist should share some basic tips on how to look after your perm. For instance, they should advise you to avoid getting your hair wet for a few days, as this can prevent your perm from setting correctly.
Once you’re ready to wash your hair, your stylist will be able to advise you on the right products to use. Usually, hydration is key with a perm, because the alkaline solution can dry out your locks. You might want to consider using hydration serums and masks to make sure your hair stays healthy.
Revitalize Your Look with a Cold Perm
There you have it, everything you need to know about the cold perm. If you’re searching for bouncy, eye-catching curls and voluminous waves, then the cold perm is a perfect choice. Here at PERFECT X HAIR, we offer cold perm treatments, as well as various other styling options to suit any need.
Regardless of what your hair goals might be, reach out to us if you’re ready for a transformation. Our stylists can give you all the insights you need to make the right decision for your hair.
FAQs
How do you care for a cold perm?
If it’s your first time getting a perm, don’t be afraid to ask for tips from your stylist on what to do next. Our top tips include:
- Condition your hair regularly to reduce moisture loss
- Comb and brush your hair gently
- Avoid heat styling tools when possible
- Protect your hair when sleeping with a silk pillow or wrap
- Get regular trims to keep your look defined
How long does a cold perm last?
Cold perms last for 3-6 months in most cases, but this can vary depending on numerous factors, including your hair length and health, as well as how you care for your perm. Make sure you follow your stylist’s instructions to get the best results from your perm.
How much does a cold perm cost?
Cold perms usually cost somewhere between $150 and $300 depending on the length of your hair. They can be a less expensive option than digital perms, but it all depends on the stylist and salon you choose. For insights into the prices of our perms, check out our complete services page.
